Hawaii (Maui and back to Kauai)

'I'iwi in Maui, HI - Photo: Melissa Hafting

You may remember we went in search of Hawaiian endemics in 2022. You can read about that trip here. This year went back to try and clean up the remaining critically endangered endemics I still needed for the Hawaiian Islands. The Akikiki on Kauai is actively being collected by the State because there are less than 45 in the wild and are so affected by avian malaria. One had already been collected from the trail we were planning to go on, so we weren't sure we would even find it. Before I get into Kauai I will start with Maui where the trip began.

A month prior I had successfully obtained a permit pass for Waikamoi Preserve that is run by the Nature Conservancy. It is the only publicly accessible area to see the Kiwikiu (Maui Parrotbill) and The ʻAkohekoke (Crested Honeycreeper).

Inside Waikamoi Preserve (restricted access site) in Haleakala, Maui - Photo: Melissa Hafting

On the boardwalk in native forest in Waikamoi Preserve in Maui - Photo: Melissa Hafting

It is a guided entry and only 6 guests are allowed in once a month (the second Saturday of the month), for a 4 hour hike. You walk through a lot of non-native forested habitat before you get to the native Ōhi'a forests. During the walk you descend onto a boardwalk while looking for the endemic native forest birds. I did see the Maui ʻAlauahio a native honeycreeper endemic to Maui and a lifer.

Endangered Maui ʻAlauahio in Waikamoi Preserve in Maui - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Sadly, we didn't see the critically endangered Kiwikiu and 'Akohekoke. It was so disappointing because you only get one shot and are not permitted to go back in. All we could do was stare at the entrance fence near Hosmer Grove and watch the native Hawaii Amakihi and beautiful Iiwi and Apapanes and introduced bird species like Chinese Hwamei, Japanese Bush Warblers and Warbling White-eyes, Mockingbirds, Northern and Red-crested Cardinals and Red-billed Leothrix. Some lucky people have seen Akohekoke in Hosmer Grove but not us this time after 4 straight days of trying. At Haleakala Crater though we saw Eurasian Skylarks, very tame Chukar, Short-eared Owls and Nene (Hawaiian Goose).

Apapane at Waikamoi, Maui - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Stunning ʻIʻiwi were a delight to see in Hosmer Grove in Maui - Photos: Melissa Hafting

 

Hawaii Amakihi (Maui) at Hosmer Grove at Haleakala National Park - Photos: Melissa Hafting

One evening we went to the summit of Haleakala National Park crater and watched the sunset and then waited for darkness. I listened intently and saw by flashlight many endangered Hawaiian Petrels (Ua’u) calling as they came into their burrows at night. Their calls sound just like their Hawaiian nameske. The calls are so unique and cool, take a listen to them at the link. I saw Hawaiian Petrels by day off Kauai last year and would again later in the trip but hearing them in the dark was super special.

Up at the top of Haleakala Crater waiting for Hawaiian Petrels to fly in calling to their burrows at their colony - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Went to Kealia Pond NWR where we found a rare White-faced Ibis. It is a rarity in the Hawaiian Islands because they have to fly so far across open ocean from North America. Could tell it was not a Glossy because it had a red eye which glossy never have in juv plumage. At Kealia Pond NWR also saw Ruddy Turnstones, Wandering Tattlers, Cattle Egrets, Hawaiian Coots, Black-crowned Night-Herons and the endangered Hawaiian Black-necked Stilts and Black Francolins. There was also an (uncommon for there) Northern Shoveler drake. I also went to the beautiful lush Waihe'e Refuge where I saw Indian Peafowl, a Brown Booby, WandeingTattler and more introduced species like Common and Orange-cheeked Waxbills, Munias, Shamas, Ring-necked Pheasants and African Silverbills.

Aeo or Black-necked Stilt in Maui at Kealia Pond are abundant - Photo: Melissa Hafting

It was nice to find this rare White-faced Ibis in Maui (Kealia Pond) - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Black-crowned Night-Heron in Maui at Kealia Pond NWR - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Went for a scenic drive on the beautiful windy road to Hana and went as far as Oheo Gultch (which was the end of the road due to road closures) and saw some White-tailed Tropicbirds and Black Noddies. We went into the underground Lava Tube to beat the heat and saw the carnivorous invasive hammerhead worms that drop down from string they produce from the cave walls. These horrible creatures eat regular earth worms. You can watch a video of the cave below. Had a nice lunch at the Hana Ranch Restaurant and a nice dinner in the little town of Paia at Cafe Des Amis. In Paia I watched an endemic Hawaiian (Black) Noddy fly right by my face as I sat by the shore at Ho'okipa watching the surfers ride the waives.

Black sand beach in Hana, HI - Photo: Melissa Hafting

7 Sacred Pools at Oheo Gultch in Hana, Maui - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Some scenery shots on the road to Hana, Maui - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Next day went out to Molokini Crater with Redline Rafting for a snorkeling trip where we saw 3 Bulwer's Petrels, another much wanted lifer!

Also while snorkeling I saw a rare flatfish, a moray eel, turtle and sea cucumbers and other beautiful fish, including the state fish the humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa. The Bulwer's Petrels, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and Red-footed Boobies nest there. Also there were many Great Frigatebirds on the island.

Went to do some seawatching and snorkelling at Kanaapali and got to snorkel with a sea turtle. Next went to Wailea's Makena Beach State Park and saw Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, Brown Boobies and many Gray Francolins. Sitting at this beautiful beach I cried and got mad at myself. Why couldn’t I be happy even in beautiful Hawaii... but tried to remind myself I just lost my dad less than 3 months ago, really close to losing my mom and waves of grief are normal. The memories from all the times we shared in Maui flooded back to me and it seemed a little less special without him alive or being on the other end of the phone to tell him about my trip and the birds I saw. I remember snorkeling in Molokini with him, going to a luau and more. In that moment I didn’t really want to be here anymore.. the pain is still so raw, life is a struggle with this immense pain in my heart but I know he nor my mother would want me to give up.

Beautiful Makena State Beach at sunset - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Introduced but countable Gray Francolins were not only common at Makena but at hotel grounds as well in Maui.

Next morning I was off in a plane to Kauai in search of critically endangered endemics and some cool lifer seabirds. To access the Mohihi Wai'alae Trail which we planned to hike you had to drive a long 4 WD Road called Camp 10 Rd. You must also ford a fast moving stream with the vehicle. I rented a Jeep Wrangler which handled the task perfectly. Fording this stream can be very dangerous when it rains heavy and the stream is high above the wheel well.

The Jeep that got us to the Mohihi Trail in Waimea, Kauai, HI - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Last year the stream was running too high to cross with the vehicle since the water level was above the wheel well. Crossing it (as it is very fast moving) in that condition is too dangerous. The water was high this year but less than last year, so I drove across. The weather was poor and it was raining heavy. Parts of the road were complete mud and slippery but the Jeep handled it well. Saw an Erckel's Spurfowl and some Black Francolins on the road up. 

This is a long uphill hike that is rated difficult. The trailhead is not marked after the required foot stream crossing. The water was high and the rocks were mostly covered. I took off my gators and shoes and rolled up my pants and crossed the cold stream making sure to not drop my camera or heavy pack into the water. A pair of prescription sunglasses sadly fell in and were carried away never to be seen again. Having hiking poles really helped during this hike and the stream crossings. After crossing the stream the trail can either go straight or up the hill to the right at the 0.25 marker. It was such heavy rain we just kept going straight which led to another (even more treacherous) stream crossing over more slippery rocks and lots of mud. After that, the hand held GPS wasn't matching the route but didn't notice any other trail so we crossed 3 other stream crossings and kept going higher and higher up the mountain. Had many falls in the mud because it was so steep, wet and slippery. My legs looked like someone beat me with a baseball bat the next day. When we came down to the next stream crossing it was so dangerous, decided to turn back and after having to do all those dangerous stream crossings again was back at the original spot, now soaked. Turned my head left and saw the trail went off steep to the left so I kept walking up and the hand held GPS now matched the track. I was so frustrated 5 hours was wasted on the other dangerous trail but happy to finally have found the right way.

It felt good to be on the correct route and although it is deemed to be a difficult trail, it was a piece of cake compared to the treacherous trail we had just come from. By this time it was pouring even more heavy and I was completely soaked. It was as if we were swimming down the trail. At 2 km from the summit set up camp and stripped out of the soaking wet clothes, and made some freeze dried lasagna with the portable butane backpacking stove and climbed into bed. At night I got to hear Newell's Shearwaters doing their donkey braying call as they flew into their burrows beneath us in the Alakai Wilderness. It was truly magical! Listen to their funny calls HERE.

After 4 days of hiking our water ran out because we are above 4000 feet and only can carry so much water on our backs. Today had to be our last day as we were dehydrated. So far we had seen several endangered Puaiohi (Kauai Thrush) Kauai Amakihi and endangered Anianiaus (endemic Honeycreeper to Kauai). Anianiaus remind me of Prothonotary Warblers. The Thrush makes really funny calls take a listen to my recording below. The thrushes were very secretive but saw several family groups. One day saw as many as 6 at once. We even saw a rare for Kauai ʻIʻiwi. Saw lots of endemic Kauai Elepaios, which kept me constant company with their adorable curiosity. They come and seek you out on the trail happily chattering away and cocking their tails.  It is sad that many of the endangered birds I saw up here are highly likely to become extinct very soon (some even as fast as this year or next). I have included recordings below that I made of the critical endemic birds, so you can hear their unique calls. Kauai Elepaio is calling on the Puaiohi recording.

An endangered banded Anianiau in the Alakai Wilderness in Kauai, HI - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Puaiohi by my friend Sandeep C Dhar (used with permission) who got better pics than me of this shy species! 

Kauai Elepaio in the Alakai are extremely cute and curious and will come right up to you - Photo: Melissa Hafting

The last night we spent under the stars sleeping on the ground with no blanket or anything... true roughing it. It was very cold and horribly uncomfortable but this way we could get up at dawn and not do a 2km hike from the tent. It would give us the maximum time to look for the Akikiki. Well it was the final day we could stay up there physically because we were thirsty, dehydrated and tired and hugry. Because we ran out of water we couldn't cook anymore food. We really wanted to find the Akikiki and the Akekee, despite being very cold (it is high up), the feet very sore and every part of the body aching.

Akikiki at the Alakai Plateau - Photo by my friend Sandeep C Dhar (used with permission) who got better photos than I did!

At the plateau at the end of the trail, you come to a junction called "Pig's Jaw junction" and it is there where most of the recent Akikiki sightings have been. 1 bird had been seen April 4th but no sightings since on eBird, so I wasn't going in there with any false illusions. The Kauai Elepaio's were curious and kept our constant company as we searched. At 9:30 am on May 22 we found the Akikiki, the most endangered bird I had ever personally laid eyes on. Was able to nab a recording and poor pics. They creep up the moss covered bark like our Brown Creeper. The setting for photography is very dark and honeycreepers are hard to photograph, as they are constantly on the move at least for me haha. It was bittersweet to watch this bird, as it will likely be collected and put into the captive breeding program until the Incompatible Insect Technique (IIT) mosquitoes are released; to help curb the devastating effects of avian malaria on the endemic Hawaiian finches. To read about how the IIT mosquitoe project will hopefully save Hawaiian endemic forest birds click HERE

Pig’s Jaw Junction at the Alakai Plateau/Summit where the Akikiki is - Photo: Melissa Hafting

In this area I saw many rat traps and mongoose traps to try and help save the endemics forest birds.Both of these animals eat chicks, eggs and adults. I also saw evidence of pigs turning up tubers. All these introduced animals detrimentally affect the Hawaiian honeycreepers and the Puaiohi. Rats especially eat the chicks and eggs, causing critical nests to fail. 

As we were leaving, we saw some of the researchers coming in to try and collect the birds/eggs. Hopefully, their hard work and efforts work or else sadly this species will become extinct very soon. I had not seen an endangered rare Akekee but was too thirsty and tired to keep looking. Akekee are a critically endangered endemic honeycreeper to Kauai. They have cool crossed bills like our Red Crossbills. They are nomadic and solitary and all you can do is get lucky if one lands in an Ohia in front of you.That sadly never happened but it was time to go for our own physical health.

At the bottom of the long hike I took a much needed dip and drink (filtered and using iodine drops) and drove the long road out. The sun was shining and the river water level was low. It was nice to get out of with ease. There is no cell service in the Alakai' Wilderness jungle and very little people, so you need to be smart up there.

Next went straight to Poipu Beach at Makahuena Point to look for Newell's Shearwaters and saw several flying with the much more numerous Wedge-tailed Shearwaters. It was so relaxing to sit by the water and watch Brown and Red-footed Boobies and a Hawaiian Petrel flying while I rested my bones and had a Mai Tai.

Poipu Beach is beautiful and a great place to watch Newell’s Shearwaters in Kauai - Photo: Melissa  Hafting

It was my first time ever seeing a Newell's Shearwater after hearing them up in the mountains.  They look like a Manx and are much smaller than the Wedge-taileds.

After rthis went to the airbnb in Princeville and took it easy going to Kilauea Lighthouse NWR, to watch the seabirds like Red-footed and Brown Boobies, Red-tailed and White-tailed Tropicbirds,Great Frigatebirds and Laysan Albatrosses flying close to your head. There was an endangered Monk Seal sleeping  down on the beach as well.

Kilauea Lighthouse National Wildlife Refuge - Photo: Melissa Hafting

The Red-footed Boobies, Red-tailed Tropicbirds and Wedge-tailed Shearwaters nest and Laysan Albatrosses nest there. However, the Albatross also nest on neighbourhood lawns in nearby Princeville, like I showed you last year. This year it was later in the year so the chicks were bigger and only a few still had the adults with them constantly, since when the chicks are bigger both adults head out to sea to find food. These Laysans fly as far as the BC Coast to find food for their chicks. It is truly incredible!

 

Laysan Albatross chick on a local lawn in Princeville, Kauai (love the hairdo) - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Monk Seal basking in the sun at Kilauea NWR - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Next day went swimming at the beatiful Anini Beach and did some snorkeling, saw the rare Snow Goose just like the year prior on the Makai Golf Course in Princeville. I wonder if it is the same Snow Goose from last year? Hawaii is famous for their many delicious food trucks which I often partook of. However this night to celebrate had a nice dinner in Hanalei where the Common Gallinule, Hawaiian Ducks and Stilts feed within the Taro fields.

 

Hawaiian Snow Goose taken with my cell phone in Princeville - Photo: Melissa Hafting

On the final evening went to beautiful Kahili Beach (Rock Quarry Beach) to scope north over Molokea Point to look for the very rare Kermadec Petrel. A pair has been returning to the island of Kauai, the past few years to nest. At 7pm right at sunset one of the birds made one single pass over the bluff and it really reminded one of a Skua. It is stocky with white wing flashes. A truly cool looking bird!

I flew Southwest Airlines this time inter-island and recommend it over Hawaiian Air because they provide 2 free bags unlike Hawaiian which charges for just one. Southwest also provides free entertainment and even a snack and drinks for the short inter-island flights and are all around cheaper. 

All in all, it was a pretty successful trip albeit with 3 big misses, so I need to return to Maui to try again one day for the Maui Parrotbill and Akohekohe whenever I can get another permit. I also need to go back to Kauai for the Akekee and probably have to redo that hike. These 3 Hawaiian honeycreepers missed are extremely difficult to find and you only get one shot on Maui but I will try again one day.

It is always a pleasure to be in these beautiful Hawaiian Islands. They are spiritual and beautiful. I thought of my parents a lot during the trip and especially after finding the Akikiki. I wish I could of called my dad to tell him about it but it kills me inside that he is no longer there to pick up my call. One of the last chases I did my dad told me he was so proud of me for never giving up but persisting till I found my bird... and I played that back in my head after seeing that bird. 

When we landed back in Vancouver it was the first time my dad wasn't waiting for me at the airport and it made me feel so very sad. I saw other parents hugging and greeting their family. I really missed him right then but then I remembered and told myself he was probably with me... birding with me the whole bloody time.

I will be back again in July with my next trip report after leading another sold out tour to NFLD. I look forward to also sailing into France direct from Canada. Till then Adieu.