A week in the Galápagos Islands

I got away this past winter to the Galápagos Islands. I had been to mainland Ecuador before, which I loved but never to the Galápagos. The weather was lovely during my stay, with a bit of a breeze but most days were very warm and the blazing sun pretty constant. The water is pretty cold there but I did snorkel and more on that later. Some wore wetsuits I wish I had but being Canadian I could manage. In Galapagos National Park all protected areas require that you use a national park guide who is a native of the Islands. The only people who can live in the islands now are those who are born there. Even those born in mainland Ecuador cannot live and work on the islands, anymore. I was really impressed by the national park guides' knowledge and care for animal welfare. The guides really make sure that people stay back from animals and stay on the trails and are subject to heavy fines, if people break the rules; such as flash photography, touching the animals or staying too long or going off trails. You cannot book the guides directly and must do so through a local tour operator, that is sanctioned by the Ministry of Tourism; like Ecuador Birds Tour. 

The guides taught me a lot about the islands and some were better birders than others, like a guide named Andrea on Santa Cruz Island. They all deserved a hefty tip for their work! The Blue-footed Boobies are the unofficial and most iconic bird of the islands and are placed on almost all the souvenirs. I didn't bring my large heavy field guide to Ecuador by Paul Greenfield et al. but took this small but detailed book by Tui De Roy to the Galapagos and I highly recommend it, as it is sufficient for the small amount of species there and has crystal clear images.

Everyone on the islands were quite friendly and most local people couldn’t speak English but the guides could of course. I used the ferry system instead of an expensive cruise ship, which is a great way to do the Galápagos on a budget. You need to like seafood, if you come here, as it forms the bulk of the menu. The heat and UV radiation from the sun in the Galápagos is very hard to bare. A hat and sunscreen is a must. I saw multiple people who were burnt very badly, who forgot to apply and re-apply sunscreen to certain spots on their bodies. There is little shade there and you are so close to the equator line…

Let me start from the beginning. I flew into Quito via Houston, Texas and then stayed the night at Zaysant Lodge, where they were super friendly. The next morning they made me a nice fresh breakfast with eggs and then went right back to the airport to fly off to the Galápagos for a 3 hour flight via Avianca Airlines.

The plane touched down on the island of San Cristóbal (the easternmost island in the Galápagos) in the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which is also the capital. You have to pay 200$ US (cash) towards the National Park Fee and a German Shepard (trained dog), inspects the luggage by smelling it all before anyone is allowed to touch the bags. I was tired but wanted to stay awake so went straight away after dropping my bags at my Hotel Casa de Nelly lunch to meet the national park guide named Pepe and we went to Cerro Tijeretas or “Frigatebird Hill.” It was a beautiful walk and I saw my first Darwin Finches that I had heard so much about, since early childhood. The first ones I saw were the Small Ground-Finches and Small Tree-Finches and later the Medium Ground-Finch. There were Galápagos Flycatchers there that were so tame they would fly right up and perch right beside the trail, staring back at you. It would be a trend I'd discover, that the birds on the Galápagos, with so few predators, are extremely tame.

Galápagos Flycatcher on San Cristóbal - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Small Tree-Finch in Galápagos 

I saw Darwin Bay and Carola Beach and looked over the rocky cliffs at the turquoise water and saw Blue-footed Boobies, Wandering Tattlers, Swallow-tailed Gulls, Franklin's Gulls, Brown Noddies and many Magnificent Frigatebirds. 

The beach was full of Galápagos Sea Lions and Pups and I was amazed at how tame they were. They also lined the streets in town, on roads and sidewalks. It was an incredible sight. Next, I did a hike up to the top of El Junco, to see the namesake lake. It was so foggy that I could barely see the lake, but did see some of the Galapagos subspecies of White-cheeked Pintail (they have duskier faces). I also saw Gray Warbler-Finches and Mangrove Yellow Warblers on the slippery and rain-mist filled hike up. Hudsonian Whimbrels flew over calling as well as I ascended and descended.

Mangrove Yellow Warbler on San Cristóbal - Photos: Melissa Hafting

On the beach, right in the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, I saw beautiful Lava Gulls (the rarest gull in the world), which I would get close-up shots of later, on Isabela Island. There were many Ruddy Turnstones, Semipalmated Plovers, Willets, Sanderling and Whimbrel on the beaches.

The next morning, I boarded a small ferry (which in Canada, we would call a speed boat) on a 2 hour trip to Española Island. You do these small ferries generally with your luggage and camera bag and go from a small open air wooden water taxi boat, onto a speedboat. People like me, climb up onto the top, to get better views of the birds, on a precarious tiny side ladder which would never be allowed by Transport Canada but this WASN'T CANADA of course! I did wonder how many tourists and their luggage had fallen into the ocean on these ferry transfers but luckily it didn't happen to me or anyone else during all my many ferry transfers and there would be many (TOO MANY) during my stay! 

Doing the ferries between islands is a lot cheaper than cruise ships but of course, a lot less comfortable haha. This day I did not have luggage because you cannot spend the night at Española Island. I was going there to see birds with Angelica, a National Park guide who was excellent. On the high speed boat over I saw the magnificent Waved Albatross in flight, Elliot's Storm-Petrels, elegant Galápagos Petrels and Galápagos Shearwaters! There were many Red-necked Phalaropes, on the water, as well. Photography was super hard on these fast ferries, so I didn't bother too much but watched them through my bins. 

Galapagos Shearwaters near Española Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

The first stop was Isla Gardner (Gardner Bay), where I saw the beautiful Lava Heron (which look like a slate-gray Green Heron or Striated Heron). Many of the birds in the Galápagos are slate-gray, like the Lava Gulls etc., which helps them blend into the rocks, especially during the nesting season. I saw many Española Mockingbirds and the Galápagos Subspecies of Brown Pelican and many Galapagos Doves.

Galapagos Lava Heron hunting Sally Lightfoot crabs on Española - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Española Mockingbirds on Isla Gardner near Española - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos Dove on Española - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Next I stopped over at Punta Suárez, where I was immediately greeted (after the small dinghy landing), by courting American Oystercatchers. There were also Galápagos Marine Iguanas that were red in colour lying on the rocks. Different islands have different coloured and sizes of marine Iguanas. There were also many Española Lava Lizards on the rocks. It was so cool to finally see a marine Iguana, which I had watched so many times on nature documentaries with my dad. How I wished I could tell him about it!

American Oystercatcher on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting 

The first time I ever saw a Marine Iguana on Española Island - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Marine Iguanas on Española Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

There were many beautiful Swallow-tailed Gulls. Even though I had seen one before in Seattle; seeing them where they should be, was a real treat. There were Nazca Boobies everywhere and Blue-footed Boobies, Red-billed Tropicbirds (I had seen my lifer previous in Oahu), Franklin's Gulls and Brown Noddies. Almost immediately at arrival a Galápagos Hawk flew over. It was unfortunately the only one that I would see during the trip.

Swallow-tailed Gull in Española  - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos Hawk in Española 

Blue-footed Booby on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Here along the rocky paths to the Waved Albatross, Nazca Booby and Blue-footed Booby nests; were Española Ground-Finches and Small Ground-Finches hopping about. Seeing the Nazca Boobies nesting right in the middle of the walking path was so cool; even though they were not lifers, having seen them before in San Diego. Luckily all tourists were very good, walking around and not harassing the birds. 

Nazca Booby chick under adult at the nest site on Española Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Nazca Booby on a nest in the baking heat on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Male Española Ground-Finch endemic to this island - Photo: Melissa Hafting

There were Great and Magnificent Frigatebirds here and I had close views of Galápagos Shearwaters and Galápagos Petrels flying close to shore. Galápagos Petrels are an endemic that are sadly now critically endangered; due to predation from rats, cats, pigs and dogs.

Galápagos Petrel off Española

I also had Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel and more of Elliot's Storm-Petrels here. I am pretty sure I had a Band-rumped Storm-Petrel as well but it went by too quickly to confirm. 

Galápagos Shearwater near Española Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

The paths on the island had many Española Mockingbirds, Gray Warbler-Finches and Small Ground-Finches and of course Mangrove Yellow Warblers; which seem to be absolutely everywhere, including on the beaches in the Galápagos Islands. Galápagos Sea Lions are everywhere on the islands and not afraid at all of people.

Gray Warbler-Finch on Española - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Male Small Ground-Finch on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos Sea Lion on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Seeing the Waved Albatrosses fly right by my head, near the spectacular cliffs, during the guided walk by the naturalist (you must have a guide on this island) was spectacular. However, seeing them up close on their nests, doing courtship displays and seeing some large chicks, was just amazing. They are truly a beautiful, stunning bird! I literally was in awe! These birds are critically endangered and are sadly impacted by plastic pollution, climate change and longline fishing.

Waved Albatross adults in flight - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Waved Albatross on its nest on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

A large Waved Albatross chick on the nest on Española - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Stunning Waved Albatross showing affection at their nests on Española - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Waved Albatrosses have little feathers that form a crown around their big eyes - Photo: Melissa Hafting

In the evening, before a wonderful seafood dinner at San Cristobal I went to Loberia Beach and Bahia Wreck, where I saw more rare Lava Gulls, Semipalmated Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Great and Magnificent Frigatebirds, Western Cattle-Egrets, Galápagos Shearwaters, Blue-footed Boobies and Mangrove Yellow Warblers (now a separate species from our Northern Yellow Warbler). As the sun was setting, a pair of singing San Cristóbal Mockingbirds appeared in a tree right above my head, allowing for some great shots. I also watched the Galápagos Hermit Crab on the beach and my they are big! I also watched some humans get chased by a large male Sea Lion, which was a little scary, they can move faster than you think!

San Cristóbal Mockingbirds sing a beautiful song on San Cristóbal - Photos: Melissa Hafting

I had to literally walk over sleeping Sea Lions that almost completely cover the sidewalks at evening time, to get to my delicious dinner at the Pier Restaurant & Cevicheria. If you like fresh seafood, the Galápagos is the place to go. The waters around the Galápagos are protected, so you can be sure the seafood is sustainable. It was my favourite restaurant on all of the islands that I would visit.

The next morning, I hopped on the small open wooden boat with about 20 others, with all of our luggage and then hopped onto a speed boat ferry with 40 others, enroute to Santa Cruz Island. These ferries are very loud with blaring music, so be sure to bring some headphones. They are not conducive to birding, unless you sit up at the top and even then they are going at a very high speed. It was a 2.5 hour trip to Santa Cruz and I was very happy to arrive on the island. I dropped off my luggage to the hotel called Hotel La Peregrina and then met up with my lovely national park guide Andrea and we walked to Charles Darwin's Research Station, birding along the way. In the town, enroute, I saw new birds: Galápagos Mockingbirds, Common Cactus-Finches and Vegetarian Finches, in addition to the other finches such as Medium and Small Ground-Finches that I had already seen on San Cristóbal. There were also many Smooth-billed Anis and Yellow-crowned Night-Herons on the water with Wandering Tattlers and Great Blue Herons, near the Fisherman's Wharf. I also watched Sea Lions stealing fish from vendors!

Galápagos Mockingbird on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Male Common Cactus-Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Male Common Cactus-Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Female Small Ground-Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

At the Charles Darwin Research Centre I saw the captive breeding program and Giant Galápagos Tortoises and Saddleback Tortoises that were over 100 years old. These tortoises were not wild and unable to leave but I would later see wild Giant Galápagos Tortoises on my trip but more on that later. In 2026 some of the captive bred Tortoises were released on the island of Floreana. You can read that story HERE 

Giant Galápagos Tortoises at the breeding facility on Santa Cruz - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Saddleback Tortoise at breeding facility on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Here I also saw Large Ground-Finches and a Galapagos Flycatcher that was eating spiders and had spiderwebs all over its cute face.

Female Large Ground-Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos Flycatcher on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Next I walked the Camino de la Tortuga trail. Here I saw the Dark-billed Cuckoos, Galapagos Flycatchers and Doves and Galápagos Mockingbirds and more of the different Ground-Finches I saw earlier on the island. I then birded beautiful Tortuga Bay before dinner. The beach here was stunning with white sand and turquoise water with all black Marine Iguanas of varying sizes, sunbathing on the beach and rocks. There were shorebirds like Ruddy Turnstones and Sanderlings, Whimbrel, Tattlers and Galápagos Brown Pelicans and Boobies flying by. I got to see my first Scalloped Hammerhead Shark babies swimming in the lagoon with Whitetip Reef Sharks. I also saw Spotted Eagle Rays and Golden Rays, which I would later swim with on Isabela Island with huge Galápagos Green Sea Turtles.

The next morning I got up early to be at the Half Moon (Media Luna) Trailhead at dawn to hike up an extremely muddy trail in search of the Galápagos Rail. The scenery and landscape was beautiful but it had rained overnight and the trail was super slick. I ended up seeing at least 3 of the elusive little rails. Some were curious and even peeked out of the thick fern-lined trail to look at me. The only other new bird I had on this walk was the Green Warbler-Finch, which is only found on a few of the islands. On the way down the trail, I slipped in the slick mud and got a little bruised up on the rocks. I figured it would happen to me as I was walking up the slick muddy trail, as going down looked like it was going to be much worse. It definitely was worth it though, to see the rail up close, even though I would find more easily accessible ones on Isabela Island haha! These rails are sadly predated often by introduced cats, rats, pigs and dogs.

Galápagos Rail on Santa Cruz Island - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Next I stopped in the Bellavista area, where I saw the much-sought after and threatened Woodpecker Finch. This finch fills the niche of a woodpecker on the island much like the ʻAkiapōlāʻau does on the Big Island of Hawaii. I also saw the rarer Large Tree-Finch, which has a honking bill, like the Large Ground-Finch.

Large Tree-Finch on Santa Cruz 

Then I went to a beautiful forested trail called Los Gemelos (Twin Craters). The mossy atmosphere was lovely. Unfortunately, there were a few tourist groups in there, slowing down the trail. There were lots of Galápagos Doves and had up close views of the Green Warbler-Finch as it posing nicely and had more good views of the Large Ground-Finch and other Darwin Finches that I had seen already.

I went next to the Lava Tube and saw Giant Galápagos Tortoises on the side of the road feeding, which was something out of a BBC documentary. I walked down inside the lava tube, which was cool and right above the entrance to the lava tube were two roosting Galápagos American Barn Owls. These Barn Owls may be split one day but for now are just listed as a separate Galápagos subspecies.

Lava Tube on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

I had lunch at an amazing spot called Rancho Primicias, where there were wild Giant Galápagos Tortoises in their natural habitat. Here they were munching away and some people were getting too close, despite the signs. The tortoises were massive but would hiss and retract their head if they got scared, which was sad to see. They were truly gentle giants and I was in awe seeing these wild tortoises in person up close; after seeing them on David Attenborough nature documentaries, since I was small.

Wild Giant Galápagos Tortoise on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

It was incredible to see a wild Giant Galápagos Tortoise on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Wild Giant Galápagos Tortoises on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Here after my delicious lunch, I walked the grounds and saw a rare for the islands, Blue-winged Teal, beautiful Galápagos White-cheeked Pintails and Common Gallinules.

Blue-winged Teal is rare in the Galápagos Islands, seen on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos subspecies of White-cheeked Pintail - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Here I also saw another threatened Woodpecker Finch, who was using a tool to feed, stunning views of a Vegetarian Finch that was eating low off the ground. I also saw Small Tree-Finch, Small Ground-Finch, Medium Ground-Finch, Green Warbler-Finch, Galápagos Mockingbirds and lots of Western Cattle-Egrets and Mangrove Yellow Warblers that were riding the backs of the Tortoises!

Female Vegetarian Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Female Woodpecker-Finch on Santa Cruz - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Galápagos Mockingbird on Santa Cruz Island - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Next I was off to the highlands of Cerro Mesa Ecological Reserve, hoping to see the Darwin's or Brujo Flycatcher. I came up empty here but would have another chance on Isabela Island. I was also hoping to see the Galápagos Short-eared Owl but didn't. Here I did see another Dark-billed Cuckoo and a few Black-necked Stilts and more White-cheeked Pintails. Of all the islands Santa Cruz was definitely the most birdy to me and fun to bird!

After dinner, I stopped by the fishing pier downtown, that was all lit up, which attracts the Golden Rays and Black-tipped and Whitetip Reef Sharks to come in and feed. I watched them with the other tourists at night, which was cool to see them, as they came up to feed at the surface.

The next morning I had a delicious breakfast near the hotel, since the hotel breakfast didn't start until after my ferry left and I was off bright and early on the small flat wooden boat with my luggage and then onto the ferry/speed boat for a 2.5 hour trip to Isabela Island. Isabela is the biggest island in the Galápagos.

After arrival I started off in the mangroves in Galápagos National Park with my national park guide Roberto on the Complejo Los Humedales trail. This trail which starts from the beautiful and long Puerto Villamil Beach where American Oystercatchers, Hudsonian Whimbrel, Semipalmated Plovers, Least Sandpiper, Black-bellied Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Sanderling, Ruddy Turnstones and Short-billed Dowitchers frequented. 

Walking along the trail here via Poz Verde, I saw my lifer Paint-billed Crake (a pretty little rail that was calling too) to Los Tunos mangrove; I saw Great Egrets, Gallinules, Black-necked Stilt and White-cheeked Pintails. The trails had Small, Medium and Large Ground-Finches, Galápagos Flycatchers, Anis, and Galápagos Mockingbirds and of course Giant Tortoises! 

Paint-billed Crake on Isabela - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Walking along the mangroves to Playa del amor (Love Point Beach) I saw Fiddler Crabs. I also saw the biggest Marine Iguanas. Of all the islands the ones on Isabela are the biggest. I watched the males there doing a courtship display of shaking their heads and many were sitting beside me squirting salt out of their noses, it was surreal.

Marine Iguanas on Isabela Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

From the rocky lava shore I watched Brown Noddies, Brown Pelicans, Lava Gulls and spectacular Blue-footed Boobies diving into the water, like missiles, chasing fish. Magnificent Frigatebirds were actively and successfully stealing fish at times too. Lava Herons were walking among the marine iguanas searching for crabs. I saw them get a few of the beautiful Sally Lightfoot Crabs. There were so many of these crabs, as they are not hunted in the Galápagos. Sally Lightfoot Crabs are literally everywhere, just like the TV documentaries showed me before my visit. I learned that there is a big sea cucumber harvesting season here but it was closed when I was there but most locals do not eat it but they export it to Asia.

After this lovely morning I went to Poza de los Flamingos. At this lagoon I saw a small flock of beautiful American Flamingos and a few Black-necked Stilts and a Semipalmated Plover with White-Cheeked Pintails. The Galapagos population of American Flamingos is steadily declining due to El Niño and climate change causing rising sea levels and flooding of their nests and there are only 400-500 birds left on the islands.

American Flamingo at Poza de los Flamingos on Isabela - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Black-necked Stilt at Poza de los Flamingos on Isabela - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Isabela may be the biggest island but it is not very populated. The main town has only 2000 residents. The special thing about Isabela is how raw and undeveloped it is, compared to the other islands, which is what I loved most about it. The other islands I stayed at were much more developed and touristy.

After a siesta I took a boat trip out to Tintoreras Islet to go snorkeling and hopefully look for the Galapagos Penguin! I saw an Elliot's Storm-Petrel flying right by the boat and some perched Blue-footed Boobies. Ruddy Turnstones were running along the rocks.

Blue-footed Booby on Tintoreras Islet - Photo: Melissa Hafting

There were beautiful banded Lava Gulls perched on a barge and they were finally were perched up close for some nice photo opportunities. It was great to finally get some photos of the rarest gull in the world.

Adult Lava Gulls (rarest gull in the world) on Isabela - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Juvenile Lava Gull on Isabela - Photo: Melissa Hafting

The National Park guide Roberto spoke perfect English and took us on a walking trip, looking at the little baby marine Iguanas as the adults lay their eggs here and I got to see a White-tip Reef Shark nursery, where large reef sharks were all sleeping on top of one another in the lagoon; which was cool to see in the crystal clear water. Most of the people on the guided snorkel tour opted for wet suits but since it felt so warm in the air I decided I would forgo it. When I saw some people getting out of the water shivering in wet suits I sure regretted it haha!

Anyways, when we got back to the boat and got to the drop off point I jumped in the water and it was cool but not too cold and I could manage. I got to see the biggest sea turtle of my life. It appeared that it was much bigger than any Green Sea Turtles I had seen in Hawaii or Barbados. I also got to swim with Spotted Eagle Rays and there were tons of beautiful fish from Parrotfish to Puffer fish and Porcupine Fish. I also saw Triggerfish and the pretty Moorish Idol.

After climbing back into the boat to dry off, after a brisk refreshing swim, the captain drove around the rocky islands looking for Galápagos Penguins. After driving by the exact same spot earlier, where no penguin had been before, there was one beautiful Penguin posing beautifully on a lava rock! I got some beautiful pictures and it was only the 4th species of penguin I had ever seen. I had only seen King, Gentoo and Magellanic before this! Everyone on the boat was super thrilled and it was the highlight of my trip. Who doesn't love penguins and all of us thought we were likely going to dip that day!

Galápagos Penguin on Isabela Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

The large penguin colony is in the western area of the island but it is a lot longer boat ride to get to, so I was glad to see this one individual! These penguins are the only penguins found north of the equator and the second smallest species of penguin in the world. They survive in the islands because of the cold Humboldt Current that brings their rich food source. These birds are affected by plastic, especially from tourist pollution and climate change and El Niño (causing them to starve) and are now sadly endangered. They are one of the rarest penguins in the world with only about 1200 left. They have a lot of predators both on land and in the sea and invasive rats and domestic cats and dogs are not helping. It seems crazy that some of the population are in the Northern Hemisphere but so it is. The sun in the Galápagos is unrelenting and you need to wear sunscreen and hats but the poor penguins can't tolerate the high heat long so they do funny stretches to protect their feet or jump in the water when it becomes too much. They nest inside lava rock crevices (they don't dig burrows), which shield them from the hot sun. 

Galápagos Penguin on Isabela - Photos: Melissa Hafting

There is a boat trip to go see the Flightless Cormorant colony at Playa Los Cormoranes on the west coast of Isabela Island and to see orcas but it got cancelled the 2 nights I was there sadly due to a mechanical issue and the only other way to get there was to charter a whole boat for 2500 US which I was not prepared to do. It was super disappointing that I would not get to see the Flightless Cormorant as it is a bird that I have always wanted to see, after watching Attenborough documentaries of the region. There is also a population on nearby Fernandina Island where Galápagos Penguins also dwell. I also did not have time to go to Floreana Island for the Floreana Mockingbird and Medium Tree-Finch unfortunately... maybe next time! Also there is a Mangrove Finch on Isabela Island but it is located where there is strict restricted access and most birders cannot see them on any given visit. There are sadly less than 100 Mangrove Finches left.

After seeing the penguins I went back to town and had some drinks and dinner by the beach and went to bed. The next morning I got up and we drove to the highlands where I hiked up to the top of the caldera of the Sierra Negra volcano. The view at the top was stunning, despite the hike in the beating down sun. Before leaving the parking lot to ascend the El Cura Trail I saw 2 beautiful Brujo/Darwin Flycatchers! The males really remind me of Vermillion Flycatchers! In fact they are called Little Vermillion Flycatchers! I also heard and saw 2 Galápagos Rails well, which was super cool. If you aren't able to hike on Santa Cruz, this is the place to see it, for those who may be mobility impaired, as no muddy uphill hiking is involved.

Male Brujo Flycatcher at El Cura on Isabela Island - Photos: Melissa Hafting

The hike up El Cura to the Sierra Negra Volcano was beautiful. I was hoping for a Galápagos subspecies of Short-eared Owl and the endemic but extremely elusive Galápagos Martin (which looks like our Purple Martin) but came up empty on both. The hike was beautiful though, with stunning views of the caldera and lots of Darwin's Finches, Green Warbler-Finches, Brujo and Galápagos Flycatchers, Galápagos Doves, Cattle-Egrets and Mangrove Yellow Warblers, along the way to keep me company. Since I couldn't go to see the Flightless Cormorants I rested before my boat trip back to Santa Cruz the next morning. 

The Sierra Negara caldera on Isabela where I did not see Galápagos Martins - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Nice to see a beautiful Brujo Flycatcher facing me on my way out from the hike - Photo: M. Hafting

The next morning I arrived back in Santa Cruz and then we drove to Baltra Island to take the plane home via Quito. I had to take another ferry from the mainland to cross the Itabaca Channel to get to Baltra Island where I would take a bus shuttle on the other side. 

At the Santa Cruz Ferry terminal I sat with a few Black Noddies who were extremely tame, unlike the ones in Hawaii who wouldn't let you get this close. Here I got some nice photos of them and had my last views of Blue-footed Boobies before boarding the ferry.  

Brown Noddy at Itabaca Channel on Santa Cruz - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Blue-footed Booby the most iconic bird of the Galápagos Islands at Itabaca Channel - Photo: Melissa Hafting

After getting on the bus on Baltra and getting off at the airport, I spotted a huge Galápagos Yellow Land Iguana that was sunning itself near the airport. It was so cool to see it and they are a vibrant yellow. It was a nice way to finish a short week long trip to the Galápagos Islands.

Endemic Galápagos Yellow Land Iguana on Baltra Island - Photo: Melissa Hafting

After arriving in Quito I flew home to Canada, a few hours later via Houston, with a very short layover on United. It was so nice to go travelling but oh so nice to come back home.