Co-leading the 2025 Trip to Newfoundland with Avocet Tours. Puffins, a Sea-Eagle and more!

I co-led a birding trip with Chris Charlesworth to Newfoundland with Avocet Tours in early July. 

On July 2nd we met up for dinner in St. John's and the next morning we went to Kent's Pond to look for a reported Tufted Duck and we found a drake at the far end of the pond. There was also a Common Tern flying by and some American Black Ducks. 

Tufted Duck in St. John's, NFLD - Photo: Melissa Hafting

We then went to Burton's Pond to see the long staying rare Pink-footed Goose. At Burton's Pond we also had a rare for the time of year Eurasian Wigeon drake. 

    Pink-footed Goose in St. John's - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Eurasian Wigeon in St. John's, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

We then drove towards Cape Pine, on the normally, visually stunning, Irish Loop. Before we reached foggy St. Vincent's we had a Canada Jay and Belted Kingfisher sitting on the wire. After a bathroom break near the famous "Gut" whale viewing site, we continued on towards Cape Pine and St. Shott's. Due to the thick pea soup fog, we didn't bother scoping a St. Vincent's. While waiting at a construction stop at St. Peter's River, we saw a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher by the side of the road, which was a pleasant surprise.

We went to St. Shott's first, where we ate our lunches. It was very foggy but we scoped the waters and found a single male Common Eider and saw several nesting Black-legged Kittiwakes.

As we were driving out of St. Shott's, one of the participants from Michigan named Melanie spotted a Grouse -type head poking out of the arctic tundra. I pulled over the car and got my bins on it and sure enough she had spotted a Willow Ptarmigan hen, with a fluffy white chick also poking its head out of the foliage; it was blending in with. I am still amazed by how Melanie picked that up driving fast on the highway.  

Willow Ptarmigan near Cape Pine, NL - Photo: Kathy Nuszdor

We then drove down the access road to Cape Pine and in there we had a Horned Lark sitting up singing and posing on a rock. The Horned Larks here are part of the Eastern Group which are much darker than the Horned Larks we get in BC. We also stopped to look at the many pitcher plants and an orchid in the tundra.

We then made our way towards Cape Race and saw a Common Tern on a telephone wire, which one doesn't normally see. En route we had a Northern Harrier flying over the tundra. At Cape Race two years ago, we had a rare Wilson's Storm-Petrel but not today, just a single Leach's Storm-Petrel (that not everyone got on) and a few Gannets and a puffin and a Minke Whale and some Humpbacks. The water here was sadly devoid of Shearwaters.

Common Tern on wire near Cape Pine, NL - Photo: Kathy Nuszdor

As we were leaving Cape Race, our Ptarmigan whisperer Melanie, spotted two more poking their heads out of the tundra. This time we all got good views of a stunning adult male and female Willow Ptarmigan! We then took the road down to Cripple Cove. At the cove we were lucky enough to see a Ringed Seal! On our way out, we also saw a Common Loon, in one of the small ponds. Most of the ponds are quite sterile with little bird activity, so it was nice to see. There was also a Blackpoll Warbler, on one of the stunted spruce trees.

On July 4th, we woke up early and after breakfast headed to Gould's, where there was a reported rare Winter Wren breeding on territory. We went to Second Pond off Donovan's Rd and did a short hike and heard it singing almost immediately. We all got great views of the little Wren and also a few Boreal Chickadees. There were also several Black-and-white Warblers, Blackpoll Warblers, Northern Waterthrushes, Blue Jays and Swamp Sparrows.

Next, we went to Bidgood Park, where we had a displaying Wilson's Snipe and many White-throated and Swamp Sparrows and more of the same warblers and chickadees we had near Second Pond. 
After this, we headed on to Bay Bulls to board the O'Brien's boat tour to Witless Bay that goes to Gull Island. Here we had at least 10,000 Atlantic Puffins, several Black Guillemots, 200 Razorbills, 2 Thick-billed Murres and 20,000 Common Murres (including Bridled Murres), 10000 Black-legged Kittiwakes and we had some great views of a couple Sooty Shearwaters and Great Shearwaters but not the typical numbers that we normally see on the water. We also had a few Northern Gannets. For a little bit of our cruise, a cute Puffin flew right beside us at eye level, which was just magical. It was raining hard for part of the boat ride (the weather changes minute to minute in NFLD) and we had some fabulous views of huge Humpback Whales that were right beside the boat. In Newfoundland, Common Murres or "Turrs" as they call them, are widely hunted for meat and it is a traditional dish. The meat is brown and stuffed as many in North America stuff their turkeys.

The unofficial (R) and official (L) flags of NFLD at Witless Bay - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Great Shearwater at Witless Bay - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Thick-billed Murre at Gull Island, Witless Bay, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

As we came back to the shore, we had an Osprey and a few Common Terns. We had a lovely lunch of fish and chips at Jiggers and then headed to Clarenville. The Steller's Sea-Eagle had been reported again in a town called North River, so we stopped at that scenic spot, briefly for the bird, but didn't see it. 
The next morning, we got up super early and drove to Elliston, to see the puffin colony there. When we arrived the cute puffins were on the grass, right in front of us. They were waddling and collecting grass and flowers for their burrows. I have attached some videos of them on the grass below. There were new signs erected this year asking people to stay back and not harass or touch the puffins. I have never seen any bad behavior there on my visits, so it made me sad that another place that is so special is suffering from unethical people harassing these amazing birds, like in so many places nowadays.

Puffin Harassment sign at Elliston, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Gorgeous Atlantic Puffins at Elliston Puffin Colony in Elliston, NL - Photos: Melissa Hafting

There had been a Hudsonian Godwit and Sandhill Crane at the site but we never saw either. Other than the adorable puffins we did see Black Guillemots, Razorbills, Northern Gannets, thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, Common Murres and Double Crested Cormorants with chicks.

Razorbills at Elliston, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Black Guillemots at Elliston, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Our clients enjoying the Atlantic Puffins at Elliston, NL - Photos: Melissa Hafting

After a delicious breakfast at Mifflin’s Tea Room, we went to Old Day’s Pond, where we had a Purple Finch, American Goldfinches, Northern Pintails and some Common Terns. We then headed to Cape Bonavista Puffin colony, but before we could even reach the parking lot, we pulled over quickly to view at least 7 Humpbacks in the cove. They were right near to shore and were putting on a great show. We also watched some goats and sheep on a nearby island that had been put there.
Once we got to Bonavista, we enjoyed watching all the Atlantic Puffins and Common Murres and Razorbills, Gulls, Kittiwakes and Murres. We really got lucky when Nancy (a client on the tour),  spotted some Puffins on the same side of us, further up the hill. I had never seen puffins on the same side as humans at this location, so it was a real treat. We all got some fabulous photos here and enjoyed the interactions of the birds with each other, some being affectionate, while others were a bit more aggressive.

Atlantic Puffin posing beautifully at Cape Bonavista, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Atlantic Puffins at Cape Bonavista, they rarely are so close at this spot! - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Here we also got treated to an incredible whale show, with great views of Minke Whales and Humpback Whales that were lunge feeding!

Client Melanie photographing puffins and seabirds at Cape Bonavista, NL

Pretty Water Irises that the puffins took for their burrows - Photo: Mel Hafting

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Bonavista, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

After this, we went to the very scenic UNESCO world heritage site, called Spillar's Cove, where we had very nice views of the rocks and seabirds below.

The famous “Chimney” rock at Spillar’s Cove in Bonavista, NL - Photo: Mel Hafting

We then went to Bonavista Woods and had Northern Waterthrushes, Wilson’s Warblers, Blackpolls and Black-and-white Warblers and Swamp and White-throated Sparrows .
The next morning we went to Terra Nova National Park and started our hike at Sandy Pond. There we walked the 3.5 Km loop and saw a family of 6 Rusty Blackbirds, which was a treat since we mostly see them in non breeding plumage in BC. It was also nice to see successful breeding of this species, as the rusty blackbird has undergone one of the most rapid declines of any abundant bird species in North America and is now seriously threatened. Rusty blackbirds have dropped 85%–98% in the past 40 years. 

Rusty Blackbird male in breeding plumage at Sandy Pond, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

We also had a Common Loon on its nest and a winnowing snipe and lots of warblers such as Magnolia, Blackpoll, Black-and-White, Wilson’s, Common Yellowthroat, Yellow-rumped, Yellow and Palm Warbler and Yellow-bellied Flycatchers! The eastern Palm Warblers are so bright and more yellow compared to the browner western ones. We also had Pine Grosbeaks calling and saw an American Toad.

Yellow-bellied Flycatcher at Sandy Pond in NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Eastern Yellow Palm Warbler at Terra Nova National Park, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Common Loon on its nest at Terra Nova National Park - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Magnolia Warbler at Sandy Pond in NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

There were lots of Swamp, Lincoln’s and White-throated Sparrows at the lake. We also had a Hairy Woodpecker and Downy Woodpecker there. We also had Kinglets and Boreal Chickadees and Hermit Thrushes. We also saw a family of Ring-necked Ducks with ducklings.

Ring-necked Duck family at Terra Nova National Park, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Beautiful and peaceful Sandy Pond at Terra Nova National Park - Photos: Melissa Hafting

We then went for a walk at the Louil Hill Trail and we quickly found several American Redstarts and saw some Black-throated Green Warblers carrying food. We also had type 8 (NFLD) Red Crossbills calling and flying over us. We also had a Canada Jay that just raided the nest of a Golden-crowned Kinglet and ate one of its chicks. Canada Jays are so cute to us humans but it is a corvid that delights in feeding on the young of other birds.

Black-throated Green Warbler in Terra Nova National Park - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Canada Jay at Terra Nova National Park, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

We then had a very nice packed lunch at the visitor’s centre at the park and then drove to Greenspond, in search of a reported rare Yellow-crowned Night-Heron.
It was a scenic drive with many glacial rocks in the water, which was cool to see. We followed the directions given to me by a local and quickly found the Yellow-crowned Night-Heron in the bay of the ocean, near a private wharf. The homeowner generously allowed us to walk on his property and wharf, to get a better look at the bird. It was so nice to see an adult in full breeding plumage with head plumes, staring back at us.

A rare Yellow-crowned Night-Heron in Greenspond, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

We then went to Ida’s Place, a little coffee shop on the ocean, to celebrate our successful twitch. It is here that we took our group photo. NFLD loves brightly coloured homes and I love them too, in this setting.

Our lovely group at beautiful Greenspond, NFLD

Ida’s Place in Greenspond, NFLD - Photo: Melissa Hafting

After the nice day, we stopped at Robin’s restaurant for ice cream, on the way home, as it was a very hot and a clear day; a rare thing in NL!
The next morning after breakfast, we went to White Hills Resource Rd and there we found a Mourning Warbler and got great views of it and a singing Blue-headed Vireo. We also got great views of a Red-eyed Vireo and Sharp-shinned Hawk. This road is great for warblers and we saw many Redstarts, our only Tennessee, Black-and-whites, Blackpoll, Magnolias, Black-throated Greens, Waterthrushes, Yellow-rumped, Yellow and Wilson’s and we also had a Cooper's Hawk, a Purple Finch and Hermit Thrushes.

Looking for birds on White Hills Resource Rd in Clarenville, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Next we drove on towards Placentia, with a stop at Arnold's Cove and nearby Arnold's Pond. There we saw some Common Terns, Greater Yellowlegs, Spotted Sandpipers, Red Crossbills, Blackpoll Warblers and Waterthrushes. We stopped by North River again for the Sea-Eagle but it wasn’t there and no one present had seen him all day. So after an hour, we continued on.
We had a nice lunch at Placentia's Harold Hotel and then headed towards Saint Bride's and our lovely accomodation at the Capeway Motel. En route we had a Moose spotted by tour participant ,June!

Moose near Placentia, NFLD - Photo: Kathy Nuszdorfer

We had dinner at "Da Bird's Eye" restaurant ,where the locals are so kind but a bit hard to understand with their thick Gaelic accents. It is the only place in town and the last seating is at 6pm. The fish and chips are great here.
We woke up and went to Cape St. Mary's and it was a rare, non-foggy morning. On the drive in, we had posing Horned Larks and singing American Pipits. We also had Northern Harriers flying over the fields and a Wilson's Snipe and Greater Yellowlegs. Here we saw several Thick-billed Murres, almost 2000 Common Murres and 20,000 Northern Gannets with young and 1000 Black-legged Kittiwakes with chicks. We had one Atlantic Puffin, a few Razorbills, Great Shearwaters and thousands of Sooty Shearwaters. While scoping the water I picked up a lone Great Cormorant for the group, showing off his white throat patch. Cape St. Mary's Bird Rock is the third largest nesting Northern Gannet Colony in North America and the southernmost breeding colony for Thick-billed Murres in the world.

Northern Gannet at Cape St. Mary's, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Northern Gannets on Bird Rock with chicks at Cape St. Mary's, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Melanie and Chris Charlesworth looking for Thick-billed Murres at Cape St. Mary's, NL

Melanie, Loren and Chris searching for shearwaters at Cape St. Mary's, NL

Northern Gannets at Cape St. Mary's, NL - Photos: Melissa Hafting

Thick-billed Murre (R) with Common Murres at Cape St. Mary's - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Black-legged Kittiwake with young at nest at Cape St. Mary's, NL - Photo: Melissa Hafting

Common Murre in Saint Bride's, Newfoundland - Photo: Melissa Hafting

After spending several hours here, in awe of all the noise of the seabirds and taking in spectacular views of the Gannets flying by our heads, 20 m away, we left to try for the Steller's Sea-Eagle again. On the drive to North River we had a family of Ruffed Grouse cross the road in front of one of the vehicles.
En route Melanie and Kathy (tour participants) had checked eBird and saw that the eagle had been reported as a flyover at 10:30 am! We would arrive at 12:45 pm and now had some hope that we would see the bird.
I decided to start at the dog park upon arrival, since it had been seen there the night prior. When we got there we looked with our bins and Chris Charlesworth spotted the Steller's Sea-Eagle almost immediately, at the very top of the cliff, above the dog park!!!

Steller's Sea-Eagle in North River, Newfoundland - Photos: Melissa Hafting

We were all so moved and so happy that we saw it.  A couple of the clients had tears in their eyes. This eagle that the locals have nicknamed "Stella" is truly something to look at. She literally takes your breath away and it is so sad that she can't find a mate here or get back to her own species in Japan or Russia. However, for this moment, we all enjoyed watching her as she sat on a rock way above us. She also called out several times and I made a recording of her. I had never heard her call before so it was really special.
This was a great end to our tour and after watching her for over an hour we drove back to St. John's where we dropped people off at their hotels and ended the tour with 97 species some 2000 km later.
Thanks to all who came and joined us for this fun-filled week! You were an amazing and lovely group to work with!